This Sprout’s Got Game

What vegetable has evolved from universally maligned to uber trendy in one generation? The fragrantly beautiful Brussels Sprout, now undergoing a virtual renaissance, appearing on the country’s finest dining tables and convincing even the most diehard hater to at least try it. Roast, sauté, or caramelize, just don’t boil them into submission for more than 10 minutes, because that’s when the glucosinolates (sulfur compounds) kick in, along with a not so pleasant odor and bitter taste. Treat them right, and they have a natural, nutty sweetness that is nothing short of sensational. Early cooks knew the secret to cooking Brussels sprouts. In the 1747 Art of Cookery, Hannah Glass calls for chopping them and frying in a saucepan with a “good piece of butter and stirring for about five or six minutes.” A century later, British cookbook author Eliza Acton was given the credit for the first Brussels sprouts recipe in her Modern Cookery for Private Families, in which she advised on the Belgian mode of preparing and serving: “Boil them quickly from eight to ten minutes; drain them well, and serve them upon a rather thick round of toasted bread buttered on both sides. Send good melted butter to table with them.” Brussels sprouts were around long before either lady discovered them, however, cultivated in Italy in Roman times, and later on, in the 1500s, in Brussels, Belgium, where they were grown and eaten in large quantities. Coming to America in the 1800s, their popularity took a nosedive, as they were frequently cooked past all recognition, becoming the bane of children told to ‘eat their vegetables.’ They never would have guessed that by 2010, Brussels sprouts were showing up everywhere, prepared in every way imaginable, and often paired with perennially popular bacon or pork belly. Today, this long lived cruciferous is the new go-to side, boasting a healthy profile as a rich source of Vitamin C, folic acid and fiber, and an equally praiseworthy flavor profile. Steamed, blanched, sautéed, deep fried, roasted, caramelized, braised, or raw in salads, chefs have discovered they play well with not only bacon, but chestnuts, lemon, almonds, nutmeg, cream, garlic, ham and balsamic vinegar, just to name a few. In Denver, Table 6 fries them up with Parmesan, lemon, and truffle oil; Back Forty in NYC roasts them with dried cherry butter and shallot cream; at King’s Wine Bar in Minneapolis, they’re roasted with smoked almonds and served with fresh fettuccine; at RPM Italian in Chicago, the Brussels sprout salad is shredded and mixed with avocado and a tangy dressing, and topped with crunchy breadcrumbs; and at Marlowe in San Francisco, tangy, crispy Brussel sprout chips are made with lemon and sea salt. Attaining legendary status are David Chang’s Spicy Brussels Sprouts with Mint, a staple at Momofuku’s Ssam Bar. The sweet-and-salty vinaigrette, bolstered by fresh herbs and chiles, is a favorite; the key, according to Food and Wine, is to almost burn the sprouts for a charred flavor Deserving of a category all its own, according to every reviewer and blogger who’s tried them, are Molly Stevens’ Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. The Fine Cooking editor and James Beard award-winning author published a recipe in her All About Braising cookbook in 2004, using 3 tablespoons of butter, a cup of heavy cream and half of a lemon, with Brussels sprouts, braised for 30 minutes. “Chop the Brussels sprouts into small pieces so they release their pungency; only then does the earthy sweet essence of these little gems emerge,” she writes. T. Susan Chang, cookbook author and food reviewer for The Boston Globe calls them “irresistible,” saying the sprouts remain sweet, nutty and un-cabbage like, despite the long braise; possibly due to the fat in the cream, the initial browning, the halving, or all three. Gillian at unfussyfare blog thinks of it as more magical: “It positively floats on the tongue…some sort of alchemy takes place between the Brussels sprouts and the cream when they simmer together for a long time, and both are better for it.” Bold and Beautiful – CROSS VALLEY FARMS™ shaved Brussels Sprouts

Perfect Proteins, Cooked Hands-Free, are in the Bag

For decades, manufacturers have been seeking a way to package up meats and poultry for foolproof cooking in an oven or stovetop. By the 2000s, a winner emerged from DuPont, fittingly known as the company that makes “better things for better living through chemistry.” Originally developed by DuPont Teijin Films in Europe, the thermal and mechanical properties of polyester film formed the basis for the product, to which shrink, formability and tailored heat seal technology functions were added. The breakthrough technology for “cook in film” made its way out of the lab, across the pond and into the test kitchen, ultimately earning the Institute of Food Technologists’ Food Expo 2011 Innovation Award…and a prime spot at US Foods™. What makes it special? After all, boil in bag has been available for quite some time, and the oven film concept itself actually began in the 1960s. But DuPont’s cook in film has several features that make it completely different from its predecessors, with benefits particularly valued by the 21st century operator. The no-touch technology known as Mylar COOK ovenable pouch is convenient and neater to use, but its biggest innovation goes straight to the heart of the food safety concern eternally hovering over today’s kitchens. No-touch, no worry. The oft-used marketing term “from freezer to oven” packs more punch with the thermoformable film because it literally means no touching of the protein contained within is needed. As every operator knows, less handling of food and reduced risk of bacterial contamination means greatly increased peace of mind. It also means mixed products can be cooked at the same time on the same piece of equipment without the risk of cross contamination between meat, fish and vegetables. An added bonus: cleanup time is dramatically reduced. And then there’s the quality story. When the company claims “Mylar COOK fundamentally changes the way we prepare food containing proteins,” they’re not overstating it. The transmission of consistent heat gives even cooking results, and even better, reduces cooking time that can be as much as 30%. Less salt and seasoning is needed in the process, as all the flavors and aromas are retained as it cooks. During the wet cook cycle, the food stays juicy and moist in the closed package. When a set temperature and or pressure is reached, the pack opens automatically—no human hands needed—and the browning process begins during the dry cook cycle. The result is very tender meat and poultry, with ideal texture, every time. That’s what sold it pre-launch in the US, according to the Olek Group president Ben Pasternak, marketing agency for Mylar COOK, who invited a constant stream of visitors to a newly opened test kitchen in Virginia. “Selling this would be impossible without having someone experience the technology and enjoy a wholesome, great-tasting product,” he said. The Mylar revolution is in progress. Products cooked in film are light years ahead of boil-in bag products, where the products invariably were overcooked and mushy; they’re more akin in taste and quality to sous vide (“under vacuum”). This decades-old method of sealing the food in sturdy plastic bags while cooking in a hot water bath, keeps in juices and aroma that would otherwise be lost in the process. It was a technique originally intended as a method of food preservation but has gained a higher profile in recent years from inspired users like Thomas Keller and Joel Robuchon. In fact, Mylar COOK film can be used for sous vide applications as well, according to the manufacturer. It’s also baking its way into the pastry and bread maker’s oven. Mylar BAKE takes the same approach to dough products—packaged in film, stored chilled, and slid straight into the oven or microwave, where the magic repeats. The pack opens by itself, moisture escapes, and everything inside is baked crispy brown.

Caramelized Brussels Sprouts With Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Lemon, and Brown Butter

Ingredients 8 ounces applewood-smoked bacon, cut into ¼-inch lardons 8 ounces butter ½ cup canola oil 3 pounds small Brussels sprouts, cleaned and halved or quartered, depending on size 2 lemons, juiced and zested Salt Instructions Place the bacon in a medium saucepan, and cover with water. Cook over high heat until the water evaporates, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook the bacon in the fat until it is crisp. Set aside on a paper towel. Add the butter to a small saucepan, and cook over medium heat until it starts to brown; remove from heat. Heat a large cast-iron pan over high heat until just smoking, add ¼ cup oil and half the sprouts, and cook for about 2 minutes until the sprouts start to caramelize, stirring occasionally. When caramelized (a little black on the edges is fine), add half the bacon, half the lemon juice, and half the brown butter, and stir together. Reduce the heat to medium; cook until the sprouts are fork tender (about 4 minutes). Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Combine all the sprouts, and toss with the lemon zest. Season to taste, and serve. (Published 2009)

FALAFEL: MIDEAST STREET FOOD GAINS FANS

Already a choice street food and vegetarian fave, falafel could actually hold the key to uniting fractious nations. Part of the tradition of every Middle Eastern country, made its own special way in each, falafel is like a common language, optimistically reports The Salt food blog. The basics stay intact--some form of beans, herbs and spices, ground up into a ball and fried until crisp—but regional variations abound. A quick tour of falafel country: • Egyptian falafels, or taameya, are made from fava beans and are spicy with the inclusion of garlic, scallions, leeks and onions with pepper. Cayenne pepper is used in the Alexandria type. It’s wrapped primarily in a whole wheat pita bread and salad with Tahini sauce. • In Lebanon, a mix of fava and garbanzo beans is used, with plenty of fresh green herbs. • In the Sudan, garbanzo beans are the main ingredient, mixed with onions, garlic, parsley, cilantro and cumin. • In Israel, chickpeas, or garbanzo beans, are used instead of fava beans. They are soaked in baking soda and ground together with onion, parsley, sesame seeds and spices like cumin, chili powder and coriander. • In Lebanon tabbouleha salad is eaten with falafel. Cucumber, turnip and onions are also included as accessories for this dish. • In Syria, sumac is used in falafel. • In other Middle Eastern countries French fries may be included on the side. And speaking of fries…so popular is falafel in the Mideast that in some locations, McDonald’s offers a version called, of course, the McFalafel. More frequently, falafel is served by street vendors, tucked into a pita, stuffed with salads and pickles, doused with tahini sauce or hot sauce, and topped with hummus. Its origins are a matter of some debate. Most credit Egypt as falafel’s ancestral land, going all the way back to paintings inside the tombs of pharaohs that show cooks making the dish, or tracing the roots back 1,000 years to the Christian Copts of Egypt who created falafel because they were forbidden from eating meat during Lent. The word falafel itself gives credence to those origins, as it may have come from the Arabic “filfil” meaning pepper or the Egyptian “pha la phel” meaning “of many beans.” During Ramadan, falafel balls are eaten as the part of the meal that breaks the fast after sunset. Other theories suggest falafel first appeared on the subcontinent of India around the 6th century. And still others claim the ancient Jewish nation invented it while slaves in Egypt. Even today, the question of who invented it is still hotly discussed. When Anthony Bourdain visited the Middle East this fall as part of his CNN show, he queried Yotam Ottolenghi, co-author of the best-selling cookbook Jerusalem. “There really is no answer to this,” replied Ottolenghi. “But the question of food appropriation or who owns the food is massive here. You can go on arguing about it forever.” Wherever and whenever it began, it spread across the Middle East. By the 1940-50s, early Israeli pioneers took on the local Arab version made with chickpeas, creating a nationally iconic dish. New varieties keep cropping up: at the Falafel Queens in Israel, for example, red falafel features jalapeño flavor, and is served with roasted peppers, tomatoes and spicy yogurt sauce, while orange falafel is made with sweet potatoes and accompanied by cabbage, honey and ginger tahini. In America, waves of Middle Eastern immigrants popularized the dish, and by the 1970s, falafel had infiltrated major metropolitan areas. In NYC, falafel stands are now as ubiquitous as hot dogs or pizza. In 2010, Subway made forays into Americanizing falafel, offering the sandwich at select locations. The originator, owner of Zaibak Brothers, Chicago’s leading Falafel Company, said: “The falafel’s growing popularity shows we have become open-minded as Americans. Mediterranean food is delicious. It’s about time everyone knew it.”

Ramen Burger

From POPSUGAR Food Ramen Burger Notes To shape the ramen into a bun, use ramekins that are similar in size to the burger patty. If you don't have ramekins, substitute pint-size deli containers. Ingredients 1 package ramen noodles 2 eggs, divided 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed 1 tablespoon ketchup 1/2 tablespoon sriracha 1 beef burger patty Soy sauce Sesame oil 1 slice American cheese 1 scallion, thinly sliced on the bias 1/2 cup arugula Directions 1. Cook the ramen according to the directions on the package (including the seasoning), then drain off the liquid. Let cool to room temperature. In a small mixing bowl, whisk 1 egg until no streaks of yolk remain. Add the ramen, tossing thoroughly to coat with the egg. Divide the egg-dressed ramen into two portions, and place each half into a ramekin. 2. Cover the ramen with plastic wrap, and weigh it down with a can of soup to compress it into a bun shape. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. 3. Add the oil to a skillet, and set over medium-high heat. Once the oil begins to shimmer, unmold the ramen buns into the pan, and cook until the bottom is a dark golden brown. Flip both of the patties, and cook until a dark golden brown on both sides. 4. Whisk together the sriracha and ketchup in a small bowl. 5. Season the hamburger patty with salt, pepper, a splash of soy sauce, and sesame oil. Wipe out the skillet, and cook the burger over medium-high heat until medium rare, or to your preferred degree of doneness. Finish with a splash of soy sauce and sesame oil. Top with a slice of cheese. 6. Wipe out the skillet, and lower the heat to medium. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan, and fry 1 egg sunny side up. 7. Assemble the burger in this order: ramen bun, arugula, ketchup, burger patty (cheese side up), fried egg, scallions, and the second ramen bun. Wrap in wax paper for easier eating, and serve hot.

Shaved Brussels Sprouts Pasta with Pancetta

serves three to four 1 pound brussels sprouts 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces pancetta, diced 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup chicken broth 1/2 pound spaghetti or capellini pasta 1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted salt and pepper Bring a large pot of water to boil. Season generously with salt. Trim the ends off of the brussels sprouts and remove the toughest outer leaves. Shred them in a food processor, using the slicing attachment (not the normal chopping blade), or slice them carefully on a mandoline. You can also slice them as thin as possible with a knife. Heat a large skillet (14-inch if you have one) over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Add the pancetta and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes, until fairly crispy and cooked through. Clear some space in the middle of the pan and add the shallots and garlic. (If you don't have enough room in your pan to create space, you can remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and add it back in when you add the sprouts.) Cook for about 5 minutes, until the shallots are soft. While the shallots are cooking, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. Add the brussels sprouts and the chicken broth to the large skillet, season with salt and pepper, and toss all of the ingredients together. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the brussels sprouts are tender but not too soft, about 5 minutes. When the pasta is finished cooking, drain and add it to the skillet. You can add a splash of the pasta water (or more broth) if the mixture seems dry. Add the pine nuts, toss everything together, season to taste, and serve. Original recipe is here.

Brussels Sprout Salad

Ingredients For the Dressing: 3/4 cup vegetable oil 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard 1/2 small clove garlic, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper For the Salad: 1/2 pound Brussels sprouts, leaves only (3 1/2 cups leaves) 1 tablespoon dried blueberries 2 tablespoons dried cranberries 2 tablespoons smoked almonds 1/2 ounce manchego cheese, shaved Bagel chips, for serving (optional) Directions Make the dressing: Whisk the vegetable oil and olive oil in a small bowl. In a large bowl, whisk the honey, vinegar, lemon juice, lemon zest, mustard, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Slowly whisk the oil mixture into the vinegar mixture until combined. Refrigerate at least 1 hour; store in an airtight container up to 1 week. Make the salad: Toss the Brussels sprout leaves, dried blueberries and cranberries, almonds and 1/4 cup dressing in a large bowl. Pile the salad onto a plate. Top with the manchego and season with pepper. Serve with bagel chips, if desired.