Perfect Proteins, Cooked Hands-Free, are in the Bag

For decades, manufacturers have been seeking a way to package up meats and poultry for foolproof cooking in an oven or stovetop. By the 2000s, a winner emerged from DuPont, fittingly known as the company that makes “better things for better living through chemistry.” Originally developed by DuPont Teijin Films in Europe, the thermal and mechanical properties of polyester film formed the basis for the product, to which shrink, formability and tailored heat seal technology functions were added. The breakthrough technology for “cook in film” made its way out of the lab, across the pond and into the test kitchen, ultimately earning the Institute of Food Technologists’ Food Expo 2011 Innovation Award…and a prime spot at US Foods™. What makes it special? After all, boil in bag has been available for quite some time, and the oven film concept itself actually began in the 1960s. But DuPont’s cook in film has several features that make it completely different from its predecessors, with benefits particularly valued by the 21st century operator. The no-touch technology known as Mylar COOK ovenable pouch is convenient and neater to use, but its biggest innovation goes straight to the heart of the food safety concern eternally hovering over today’s kitchens. No-touch, no worry. The oft-used marketing term “from freezer to oven” packs more punch with the thermoformable film because it literally means no touching of the protein contained within is needed. As every operator knows, less handling of food and reduced risk of bacterial contamination means greatly increased peace of mind. It also means mixed products can be cooked at the same time on the same piece of equipment without the risk of cross contamination between meat, fish and vegetables. An added bonus: cleanup time is dramatically reduced. And then there’s the quality story. When the company claims “Mylar COOK fundamentally changes the way we prepare food containing proteins,” they’re not overstating it. The transmission of consistent heat gives even cooking results, and even better, reduces cooking time that can be as much as 30%. Less salt and seasoning is needed in the process, as all the flavors and aromas are retained as it cooks. During the wet cook cycle, the food stays juicy and moist in the closed package. When a set temperature and or pressure is reached, the pack opens automatically—no human hands needed—and the browning process begins during the dry cook cycle. The result is very tender meat and poultry, with ideal texture, every time. That’s what sold it pre-launch in the US, according to the Olek Group president Ben Pasternak, marketing agency for Mylar COOK, who invited a constant stream of visitors to a newly opened test kitchen in Virginia. “Selling this would be impossible without having someone experience the technology and enjoy a wholesome, great-tasting product,” he said. The Mylar revolution is in progress. Products cooked in film are light years ahead of boil-in bag products, where the products invariably were overcooked and mushy; they’re more akin in taste and quality to sous vide (“under vacuum”). This decades-old method of sealing the food in sturdy plastic bags while cooking in a hot water bath, keeps in juices and aroma that would otherwise be lost in the process. It was a technique originally intended as a method of food preservation but has gained a higher profile in recent years from inspired users like Thomas Keller and Joel Robuchon. In fact, Mylar COOK film can be used for sous vide applications as well, according to the manufacturer. It’s also baking its way into the pastry and bread maker’s oven. Mylar BAKE takes the same approach to dough products—packaged in film, stored chilled, and slid straight into the oven or microwave, where the magic repeats. The pack opens by itself, moisture escapes, and everything inside is baked crispy brown.