Fresh Harvested Kohlrabi |
It’s not a cabbage or a
broccoli, or a radish or an onion, or for that matter, a bird or a plane
(although some say it does resemble a hot air balloon), but kohlrabi is a true
superfood, and now a super seller. What has pushed this odd-looking, knobby
purple or green vegetable with the even odder name to the top of the culinary
A-list, racking up a 200% increase in menu penetration last year? This week, a crash
course in all things kohlrabi.
Part of the cabbage family (its name means ‘cabbage
turnip’ in German), kohlrabi goes
way back, first mentioned by Apicius in his oldest known cookbook from imperial
Rome, and beloved by Charlemagne, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire in 800 AD,
who ordered kohlrabi to be grown in the lands under his reign, according to Vegetarians in Paradise. Consistently
grown in Europe by the 1500s and Northern India in the 1600s where the Hindus
considered it an important staple, kohlrabi came to America in the 1800s, but never
took on the mass appeal of other vegetables…until now.
Part of this not-so-newcomer’s appeal is what Martha Stewart Living food editor Sarah
Carey calls “a delightful
combination of familiar tastes…the texture of a radish and the sweetness of
jicama, with a slight hint of broccoli. The edible leaves are like a milder
version of collards."
It may not be easy on the eyes, but kohlrabi is easy
on the prep. A vegetable peeler is
all you need to eliminate the outermost layer of the bulb. “Be
aggressive in your peeling,” advises Greens
+ Grains cookbook author Molly Watson, “for the skin is rough and heavy and
forbidding, all the better to keep the only mildly curious away from the
supremely crunchy, sweet and tender vegetable underneath.” Now, it’s good to go in a variety of ways,
according to kitchn.com:
Raw: Toss
them in a salad (it absorbs the flavor of salad dressing well), grate for a
super slaw, or eat them plain with just a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkling
of sea salt.
Pureed:
Make it up in a creamy pureed soup of its own with some savory spices, or add
to cream of potato, mushroom or broccoli soups.
Fried:
Kohlrabi fritters are easy, just shred, mix with an egg and a few tablespoons
of flour or breadcrumbs, drop small mounts onto a greased skillet, flatten
slightly with the back of a spatula, fry until both sides are crispy. Even the
kids will eat it, as long as you don’t tell them what’s inside.
Roasted:
The outside caramelizes and the flavor sweetens, making a great addition to a
roasted veggie platter or paired with potatoes or squash for a satisfying side.
Or slice unpeeled kohlrabi very thinly, toss with olive oil and coarse salt,
and bake for an hour until crisp and golden.
Barbecued:
Slice or chop kohlrabi and toss with a little extra virgin olive oil, a dash of
salt, wrap in aluminum foil and grill for 10 minutes.
Steamed:
The versatile kohlrabi hits it stride steamed; use in frittatas, stir-fries,
pasta dishes, empanadas, calzones…no limits here!
But don’t stop here, “Recipes for Health” columnist Martha Rose Shulman
suggests spicy pickles a la kimchi, Kohlrabi and Celery Root Puree (like
buttery mashed potatoes only healthier), Greek-Style Kohlrabi Pie (sub in for
spinach), Vegetarian Spring Rolls with Shredded Kohlrabi, Kohlrabi Home Fries
(cut into matchsticks, fry up with a little oil and some bold seasonings), and
a completely outstanding Kohlrabi Risotto.
And of course, kohlrabi doesn’t wear its superfood designation lightly, but packs in
the vitamins C, A and potassium, boasts antioxidants galore and is no slouch in
the fiber department either…and does it all for 19 calories a half cup. Kohlrabi, your time has come.
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