Parsnips, Turnips, Rutabagas…Rooting for You!

Don’t pity the poor root vegetable…terms like ‘ugly’ just roll right off their gnarled, misshapen backs. More important is they’re no longer being overlooked, and in 2015, show every sign of rising to the top of the veggie plate. Celery roots and kohlrabi are the new kale, but even better, because these humble vegetables can replace the equally humble potatoes, with lots more flavor, in a fat-free, low-sodium, high-fiber, vitamin and mineral-rich way. This makes them beloved by restaurateurs, foodies and nutritionists alike, the culinary version of a hat trick. Mashed parsnips and beet chips are just the beginning, here’s a look at how creative chefs are digging into this trend…

Roast. Basic, but arguably the best way to enjoy the root. America’s Test Kitchen recommends a mix of carrots and parsnips, whose flavors are concentrated and caramelized in the heat of the oven. To speed up the cooking process, the vegetables are microwaved and then placed on a preheated baking sheet for browning. Also consider Maple Roasted Parsnips, made with pure maple syrup that pairs well with the veggie’s slight spiciness, Balsamic-Roasted Beets to counter the sweetness, and Orange-Glazed Carrots.

Praise the braise. Award-winning cookbook author Molly Stevens found that braising root veggies was even tastier than classic meat-based braises like pot roast and pork belly. The age-old technique of cooking ingredients gently with a little bit of liquid in a covered pot can “coax even the humblest plants into memorable dishes, releasing their essences into the seasoned liquid, emerging infused with flavor and bathed in a savory sauce.” The more rugged the veggie, the better, so bring it on: carrots, onions, turnips, rutabagas, fennel, leeks, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, Jerusalem artichokes, endive, parsnips, salsify, escarole, mustard greens, collards and daikon radishes. For liquid, the choices are equally abundant: water, broth, wine, cider, beer, fruit juice, canned tomato, coconut milk, cream, and used sparingly, vinegar, soy sauce or fish sauce. Seasonings can range from the simple salt and pepper to aromatic herbs and spices, perhaps sautéed in a bit of oil before adding to the vegetables and liquid. Even bolder, fry up bacon, sausage or pancetta and use it to flavor the dish…a technique that’s catching fire in 2015.  Stevens suggests a braise-and-glaze finish--remove the baking pan lid at the very end and turn up the heat to evaporate any remaining liquid into a glaze that coats the vegetables, and allow it to caramelize slightly for a natural sweetness.

Puree. Root veggies, simmered, processed and smooth, earn their keep in top kitchens, such as Charleston’s James Beard-award-nominee The Ordinary, where Chef Mike Lata whips up an extraordinary Root-Vegetable Pasta Carbonara. Using a “luscious purée of parsnip and celery root both lightens up and boosts the flavor; the vegetables stretch the sauce so it completely cloaks the noodles,” reports “Slow Food Fast” columnist Kitty Greenwald in the Wall Street Journal. “The flavor is more complex, parsnips are very sweet, and celery root has an aromatic quality that adds savoriness.”

Grill/sauté. Beets are positively transformed by the grill, which brings out an earthy sweetness and adds a deep smoky flavor; their sugars become almost candied and charred, according to OneGreenPlanet.org. Prep is easy, peel, slice, brush with oil, season with salt and pepper and cook for 30 minutes. Radishes thinly sliced and pan fried until caramelized also make a deliciously non-decadent side.

Bake. The mysterious-sounding kohlrabi, tasting like a cross between cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli stems, cooks ups into great, healthy fries. Cut into French fry-shaped sticks, toss with olive oil and spices and bake until crisp.

Mash. As a stand in for potatoes, call in the rutabagas, also known as a Swedish turnip. Peel, chop, boil and mash them up, add milk, butter, salt and pepper, and you have a completely low-cal and Vitamin-C rich alternative to the spud.