The fresh fruit favorite has squeezed a lot of history into barely a century of U.S. production, building a statewide empire, a reputation for health, a secure place on the breakfast table, and acquiring an affectionately shortened nickname along the way. Gaining both popularity and stature over the years, orange juice accounts for two-thirds of all juice consumed, and natural orange juice has become so upscale that Forbes magazine recently dubbed “real OJ” a luxury item. Its pulpy tale follows…
The orange capital. Florida’s embrace of the brightly colored juicy sphere started in the 1500s when Spanish explorers planted the first orange trees near St. Augustine. The state’s warm sub-tropical climate and abundant rains proved more than hospitable, and by 1830, an orange grove was established on Merritt Island. But the real explosion didn’t begin until a century later, with mass production and refrigerated transportation. OJ was poised for a big splash in 1945, with an enormous order for powdered orange juice from the U.S. Army. While the war’s end sent soldiers home and put the kibosh on the powdered OJ order, the Florida Citrus Commission had just put the finishing touches on a method of producing frozen concentrated orange juice that not only created a multimillion dollar industry in the state, but sparked the entire frozen food industry. Research director Louis G. MacDowell’s secret: adding a little single-strength fresh juice to slightly over-concentrated orange juice to restore the flavor and aroma lost during vacuum evaporation. Minute Maid led the brands with its 1946 intro touting the time savings aspect of its frozen concentrate, followed by a phenomenally successful 1948 campaign with Bing Crosby singing and swilling for OJ, and setting the stage for decades of celebrity spokespeople. Today, Florida is still the reigning OJ state (official state beverage since 1967) making approximately 80% of America’s orange juice from its oranges. Worldwide, Florida ranks second only to Brazil in orange juice production.
California’s other gold rush. Over on the west coast, the Valencia orange is a juicy part of the state’s history as well. First created in the 1840s by Californian agronomist William Wolfskill on his farm in Santa Ana, California, the orange was in huge demand during the Gold Rush of 1849 to combat scurvy. Wolfskill’s citrus business boomed alongside the gold, and was later sold to the Irvine Company who dedicated nearly half their land to its cultivation, eventually spinning off just the Valencia oranges to become the Sunkist Company. Today, California's citrus biz is second only to Florida; although California takes the crown for fresh-market oranges, most notably the navels, as well as a significant share of the nation's Valencia’s, lemons, grapefruit and tangerines.
Quite a process. From south or west, the road to a freshly squeezed glass of OJ starts with the harvest, and juice oranges are left on the trees longer for better flavor. Before harvesting the fruit, producers take samples and juice them to test for the right balance of acidity and brix (sugars). When ready, the oranges are washed, skins are pricked to let oils flow out, and then the whole oranges are passed into machines for squeezing. Peel, pulp and seeds are used for livestock feed; alternatively, the peel may be separated out, and processed for pectin or candied peel or marmalade. The pulp is often added back into some of the juice batches for consumers who prefer the high pulp taste in their morning glass of OJ.
Go with the flow. Early recipes combined orange juice and extract with a sweetener to serve as a refreshment and restorative to the sick. Today’s chefs squeeze it into everything from brunch stratas to tangy vinaigrette dressings. Beyond the traditional mimosa, OJ can liven up a Rossellini (add white wine and vermouth) or a tequila sunrise. Food bloggers swear by the depth of flavor added to vegetables like beets when they’re roasted in OJ instead of water, and the intense Latin flavor of an orange-infused marinade for chicken or pork. One of the easiest and tastiest OJ recipes comes from Emeril Lagasse’s childhood. His favorite French Toast, which he invented as a young boy (experimenting from day one in the kitchen!), features a batter made with both freshly squeezed orange juice and orange zest for a flavor that “will just about knock your socks off,” he promises.
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