House Cured Meats The Artisan Chef

Compart Farm Duroc Belly Out of Brine

Curing has been performed as far back as the 13th century. It was originally done as a preservation method.

There are three types of curing meats: dry curing (salt), wet curing (salt and liquid) and combination curing. Curing, no matter which method, involves several processes, the most significant of which is denaturingof the proteins. This happens when salt is introduced to the meats proteins. Proteins are coils and the salt causes the proteins in the muscle fibers to unwind and absorb the extra water trapped inside. Water inside your meat spells trouble because bacteria love water so eliminating it by salting and drying allows for longer storage.

Duroc Bellies Hang to Dry

With dry curing, a mixture of salt, nitrates or nitrites, and sugar is rubbed on the outside of the meat. The sugar is used to offset the harshness of the salt and the nitrites and nitrates not only help kill bacteria, but also enhance flavor and color. As the salt mixture migrates inside, the meat’s natural moisture travels out. Equilibrium is achieved when all of the salt is inside and no more water loss occurs. Time is, of course, dependant on weight however a good rule of thumb is 2 days per pound. Dry curing is the fastest method however it results in the greatest loss of original weight usually 15-20%.

Bellies in the Smoker

Wet curing, or brining, is a slower process and traditionally used for larger cuts such as ham, corned beef brisket, and pastrami. It results in a much juicier product with a milder flavor. The meat is immersed in, and or, injected with, a curing solution of water, salt, and sugar. (Sugar is only used if the curing is to be done under refrigeration.) Some wet cured meats are smoked afterwards. Most cuts require 3-14 days of curing during which time the meat must be turned due to the fact that the salt settles to the bottom and the nitrites rise to the top. If smoking, the meat must be rinsed in cold running water to remove any salt on the outside and then dried in a well-ventilated area. Drying usually takes about a day. 

During the smoking process coagulation of the surface of the meat occurs. The smoke emits acids and those acids adhere to the meat and form a layer of skin. This skin protects the meat from surface mold and bacteria. This is so vital because smoking is a slow process done at a low temperature, usually 225-250 degrees for fish and 160 degrees for meat.

As Chefs and consumers focus on sustainable products and whole animal eating these preservation methods have made a resurgence in commercial kitchens.

Peppered Smoked Duroc Bacon

Our featured Restaurant in this issue is Massimo Ristorante in Walnut Creek where Chef Owner Max Wolfe frequently features house cured Charcuterie including bacon, pastrami, sausages, and speck.  His speck recipe hails back to his home in Austria where his family owned a lumber business and slow smoked their speck over sawdust from the mill.